In order to participate in the BCYC Regatta I needed to sail Venya, my 35’ Norwegian pre-war yacht, from her mooring on the River Alde to Cowes.
The trip would take three days as there would be no night passages. Legendary classic yacht owner Chris Mannion, who had clearly enjoyed crewing aboard for the SYH Regatta in June, had gamely volunteered to assist with the delivery. I had made the initial trip from our summer mooring at Aldeburgh to SYH the previous day, ignominiously, managing to go aground at low water, while cutting a corner near Slaughden Quay.
Early morning, a rising tide, no witnesses, no harm done, but it was a long and embarrassing 20 minutes before floating off. After that it was a pleasant trip down the river into the North Sea and an easy cruise down the coast and up the Orwell to Suffolk Yacht Harbour.
Day 1 Monday July 12th Harwich to Dover
We had agreed to leave at the civilized hour of 0830 to catch the first of the flood, and set off with a fully fuelled and provisioned yacht into a dispiriting drizzle. The wind was a light NE so we chose to motor sail to assist our progress. We did the 12 miles to Sunk Head Tower in good time, averaging close
to 6 knts, then continued down the Black Deep Channel to the Long Sand Inner Buoy which marks the edge of the wind farm where we navigated carefully through the slowly spinning wind motors to Long Sand Outer then headed slightly East to clear North Foreland. The drizzle had now become steady rain and the tide had turned against us, so progress slowed to a dispiriting 3knts. We crept up to and past freighters moored up in the Thames approach. Gradually the murk thickened until the horizon disappeared.
We had to rely on compass and Navionics for directions. The NE wind was of no help so we furled the genoa, strapped in the main and plugged slowly on under engine. Spirits were low and regular cups of tea were deployed.
Gradually the murk lifted and we could make out the Kent Shore below North Foreland. By 1800 we were off Ramsgate with a friendly tide under us the prospect of Dover for dinner became a distinct possibility.
The visibility had lifted, which was a relief, as Dover approach is busy with arriving and departing ferries which can appear very suddenly. The Dover VHF channel is manned by intimidating crisp chaps and we have “history” here “Small white sailboat please respond.” Who us? Swiftly followed by the Harbour Master’s launch. “Please indicate your intentions, didn’t you hear us calling you? Oops, very sorry”. So it was with some relief that on the first time of asking, we were cleared to enter the inner harbour from the North Entrance for transit to the yacht basin at 2030, where we gratefully moored up. The Harbour Master had moved from his convenient but dingy office at the top of the gangway, to a shiny new HQ some distance away, overlooking the harbour. This would have been ideal for the planned new yacht moorings, which sadly and expensively, proved unsuitable due to wash. By now quite tired and a bit grumpy we trekked to the office and were checked in by the smartly uniformed staff. An unexpected bonus was that a new restaurant, The Dover Patrol, was right next door so we tramped over, shed our wet oilskins and ordered hot food and cold wine. There was a rather melancholy air about the place with a few other diners and our rather sweet but gormless waitress confessed that it was her first day and we were her first guests. We tipped well and headed to the boat and bed. A long and not very enjoyable day at sea.
Day 2 Tuesday July 13th Dover to Royal Sovereign Marina
We made an early start to catch the tide which swept us along the coast at a heartening 6Knts +. A welcome contrast to previous years when we had crept along at 2/3 knts. Dungeness was soon abeam.
Here, we encountered the first of the East going tide. But not before being forced to take a hitch out to sea to skirt the edge of the no-go firing zone. There was a friendly Easterly breeze to assist us on our way and we made good progress across under grey skies towards Rye Bay and past Hastings until finally arriving at Eastbourne and the lock gates of the Marina, before 1700. A good trip. Despite our declaration to be a difficult to manoeuvre, elderly sail boat, we were assigned an inside berth requiring docking skills well outside our comfort zone. After a brief grounding within the dock (skipper error), we spotted a friendly berth holder who took our lines as we slide untidily and defiantly into the nearest vacant slot. There was definitely a whiff of wacky baccy about the chap, but he was friendly, helpful and chatty. Live aboard folk tend to march to a different tune. Once finally tied up, we hit the warm and welcoming shower block then headed off for food. The marina is surrounded by apartment buildings and the restaurants are at the far top corner. The Jolly Italian was sadly shuttered and dark, a casualty of Covid. However, the Thai place next door was bustling. As our waiter gleefully declaimed, “They go bust, now we get all customers”. Unfortunately, this also meant that the food service was disastrously slow and the two sailors were less and less jolly as the minutes stretched by. Finally, the food arrived which we scoffed quickly then headed for our bunks. Another long day afloat but a much better one.
Day 3 Royal Sovereign Marina to Cowes
Having carefully considered the forecast of 18 / 25 NW. We locked out for an early 0600 start with reefed main and a 1996 Ratsey blade jib to catch the last of the West going tide.
We enjoyed a nice fetch to Beachy Head before heading West on what turned into a full beat. The sail set up was good and the boat was well balanced as we thrashed our way along on tacks into the shore and out to sea. Initial progress faded as the tide turned against us at 1000. The combined wind and tide were quite rough but the old girl handled it well and we felt a sense of confidence as we tramped along slowly ticking off the Passing landmarks: Cuckmere River, Sleaford, Newhaven, Peacehaven. Finally, the wind swung and the bow lifted onto a fetch. Relief. By early afternoon the tide had turned the sun was shining and we were starting to make good progress.
There was time for a hot lunch, cold beer and yarns of past Regattas, passages, and sailing experiences, as we headed steadily towards the second essential point on any South Coast passage, Selsey Bill. The plan was to nip through the Looe between Boulder and The Street buoys. The tide was favourable and the now friendly wind sped us along to make our waypoint by mid-afternoon. Once past, we put in a Northerly tack up past Cross Ledge, which set us up nicely for a fetch to the Fort. Once into the Solent we eased sheets for a cracking sail up the South Channel. Off Osborne Bay a large sleek rib arrived with a cheery Bob Gatehouse at the wheel to welcome us to the Solent. Bob is an Associate BCYC member, owner of Bravade, a shiny modern 6M, and all around good egg. Spirits were high.
We made the Yacht Haven by late afternoon after the best sailing day of the passage. Once safely docked – no dramas here thankfully – we headed for The Anchor for food and beer. Later we treated ourselves to a decent curry with our Cowes based friends and racing crew, Colin Lloyd and wife Geraldine, who is on the Wine Committee at The Royal Thames. She insisted on a bottle of Mateus Rose. A Classic wine for a Classic crew.
A very good finish to 172 miles of passage making, over three long three days afloat.
NoW for some racing!
Venya Goes Home
The delivery crew from Suffolk, Chis Mannion, had not been able to do the return leg. As the week wore on my mounting concern at not having a crew was solved by an appeal on social media – who knew? – which produced one Josh Dekker a “nice young man” and freshly minted, engineering graduate from Southampton University who was crewing on Border Legend, a recently relaunched and very beautiful McGruer ketch. It had been his first experience on a big boat and as he had the time and a taste for a bit more adventure, he fancied the cruise along the South Coast and across the estuary to Suffolk. Having him signed on was a big relief. Happy days beckoned.
The forecast for Saturday was a brisk Easterly so we remained in Cowes, to enjoy a leisurely breakfast on the High Street. After carrying out some essential boat tasks, a half day holiday was declared and we headed to lunch at the RORC to meet up with friends. It was a perfect sunny afternoon and we whiled away the time discussing sailing techniques and tactics with David Myatt a BCYC stalwart and 8M owner from Jersey. So much better than crashing into an Easterly, no?
Day 1 Sunday July 25th Cowes to Royal Sovereign
Early 0600 start to catch the East flowing tide. The wind had swung North, much better, and we set off down the Solent in a light rain, past the Forts, enjoying a cooked breakfast underway. It is a tradition that we eat well while passage making. We were through the Looe before the tide turned at noon.
Although it was a grey overcast day we made good time on the long-haul past Bognor, Littlehampton, Worthing and Brighton.
Although it was a grey overcast day we made good time on the long-haul past Bognor, Littlehampton, Worthing and Brighton. Newhaven and Seaford held no worries on the return leg and we reached Beachy Head at slack water.
This time the officials at the marina were kind and we were given an outside berth on an accessible pontoon. Oh the relief. After topping up with fuel and availing ourselves of the comfortable shower block, we headed back to the Thai this time thankfully with much improved service. We put in an early night.
Day 2 Monday July 26th Royal Sovereign to Ramsgate
We locked out at 0600 and set off eastwards against the tide but with a friendly NW wind to help us along. The weather was overcast and visibility was about 1½ miles. The tide changed mid-morning and we made the point at Dungeness on a rapidly building flood.
The trip North went well under leaden skies into a building wind, and for the first time we encountered other yachts also on passage. We passed Dover on the last of the flood and hardened up to encounter the first of the foul tide. Josh was helming and inclined to a course towards the shore, to get out of the tide.
As he did not know the waters and had not consulted the chart, I pointed out that it was not a good idea to steer where you did not know exactly what lay below as well as ahead. The transition from a dinghy sailor to a cruising sailor requires time and experience and occasional gentle guidance from an old salt. Once that was understood, we continued to make steady but slowing progress, leaving the notorious Goodwin buoys to starboard. We ticked them off, one by one, until we finally reached East Brake which marked the beginning of the Channel into Ramsgate.
The breeze has risen to 18/20 knts and we had a bouncy trip into the shelter of the harbour, arriving at a reasonable 1700 after a good trip of 60nm. Ramsgate is a busy base for wind farm service vessels and a popular port for continental yachts. We were given a berth near the entrance with an easily accessible mooring. There was an astonishing amount of seagull poop on the dock, and as it happened, we were tied up ahead of a boat from Aldeburgh, Small world. Plan A was dinner at the popular Italian on the hill. However, they were so popular that they were fully booked. The shower block is a short walk from the harbour and reflects its municipal heritage. Slightly shabby – but the water was hot, and as it was now a lovely sunny evening, we decided to stroll into town to see what was available. There were reminders of Ramsgate’s past maritime glory but the town now appeared to attract mostly bikers roaring about noisily. There is the same vague air of menace as is found in Key West but without the style. We spotted a Gelato with a simple but promising menu and were able to obtain a table. We were in fact the only diners, so no worry about reservations. The food was surprisingly good and Il Padron and La Padrona, both well into their 70s, were charming and made us sailors feel very welcome. Well-fed and in the mood for sophistication, the skipper splashed out on espressos and Grappas, before we strolled back to the boat, feeling relaxed after a long day afloat. Tomorrow, the Estuary.
Day 3 Tuesday July 27th
Another early start at 0600. With the tide against us we made slow progress towards North Foreland.
Off to the East alarming cloud banks threatened dirty weather. Fortunately, they stayed in the East, and we headed North in relative peace.
This was the story of the day as we bucked the tide, tracking north across the estuary under grey skies with a light following wind, which was useless for sailing, until almost 1400. This saw us through the windfarm which was a trickier passage than the one South as the echo sounder had ceased operating and the depth was quite shallow. We paid close attention to our position on the ever-helpful Navionics and enjoyed a better slant of wind once we made a more Easterly heading up the Black Deep before we finally encountered the first of the friendly ebb near Sunk Head Tower.
We cranked on the revs to get us into Harwich and up the Orwell to Suffolk Yacht Harbour as the young Josh had to catch a train in order to be at home on Wednesday morning for a vital online job interview. We made the harbour by 1500 and Mrs Gilday was on hand to rush him to the train station. We swiftly moored up near the entrance.
It was a relief to be safely back in Suffolk at the end to a trouble-free passage.
We had enjoyed some spirited racing during the BCYC Regatta, and we had made it to Cowes and back home, as planned.
This is what owning a Classic sailboat is all about.
Postscript
Enraged by the slow progress that occurred in anything but favourable conditions, I have installed a 25hp Beta engine augmented by a three blade propellor, to replace the puny 16hp two blade set up. Stay tuned for 2022, when we fully expect to be water skiing on passage.
THE END
